Resistance Hand Guard Installation Instructions
1. Wedge Nuts (2 total)
2. Allen Screws (4 total)
3. Throttle Side Bar
4. Brake Side Bar
5. Throttle Side Shield
6. Brake Side Shield
7. Rubber Strip (picture not included)
First prepare your grips for the aluminum wedge nuts. Those with rubber grips this is quick and simple, those with metal grips use same or similar procedure, but is a little more time consuming. You can do one of two things:
1. Drill out grip end to 1”
2. Use saw and trim grip about 3/16” from end. Be sure to deburr throttle sleeve so it doesn’t drag on wedge nuts (See Figure A below).
Take bars (Parts 3 & 4) out for assembly. The one with the shorter 90 degree tab (Part 3) is the right side, the throttle side. Take 3/8” bolt and put through the 3/8” hole in the end of the bar. Then take the wedge nut (Part 1) and assemble loose. The wedge nut with the shoulder on it should be against the bar (See Figure B below).
Now because of the number of different handle bar manufactures and tubing sizes the wedge nuts may require the 2” wide rubber strip. If so cut rubber strip in half (length) peel backing and wrap around the smaller part of the wedge nut, not the shoulder (See Figure C below).
After installing the throttle side do the same thing on the brake side using the brake side bar (Part 4) and the other wedge nut (Part 1).
After the bars are assembled correctly, it should look like Figure D below.
Now unbolt mirrors and remove them. Then insert wedge nuts into the handle bar, and insert mirror stem through the tab in bar. Tighten up mirror, then tighten up wedge nut in handle bar (make sure that the shoulder is not contacting the throttle so that it doesn’t drag).
Now take your throttle side shield (Part 5) and two allen screws (Part 2) and bolt it on the throttle side bar. Repeat on the brake side bar with the brake side shield (Part 6) and the remaining two allen screws (Part 2).
Now your assembly is complete……..go split lanes
to internally wire 8"
West Coast T-Bars with
1.Locate the plugs for the handlebar
wiring under the tank behind the plastic shield and
both. I found no need to remove the
tank on the Sportster although I did take out the front tank bolt so I could
lift the tank for
easier access. Be careful
stretch and break your
2. Undo switch housings
grips. Pull the throttle
cables out of the switch
housings. Cover the tank
and front fender, etc. with blankets, towels, whatever to
keep this stuff from
scratching the bike. Hang
the housings off the bike in a safe place. No
need to unattach the other ends unless
you are putting
new cables which I
the riser clamp, and
then the riser bolts. ¾” socket
for the riser bolts. Once the riser
bolts are loose remove the riser
clamp. You’ll figure out the reasoning
for the order of this if you avhe ever
done it the wrong way.
4.Disassemble the connectors for the handlebar wiring. I have Deustch connectoers on
Sportster. To take these apart, pull out the hard orange
plastic piece in the
end first. Then use a jewelers
screwdriver to pop
each wire out of it’s locked
position. Pull the rubber piece on the other end out along
with the wiring.
Make sure you draw a diagram of each side
with what color wires go where
so you can reassemble easily. I forgot to take a pic of my
5.Tie a small nut
to the end of a long piece of
fishing line and use
that to fish the fishing line through the bars. You should be able to get it out
of the bars on the
other side fairly easily.
Tie the end of fishing line around the
metal pin connectors as close to the end as possible.
Be careful not to pull
it out of the
bars or else you will
to fish it through the bars again. Don’t
ask how I know this. Wrap with electrical
tape up to where the sheathing on
the wiring starts so
that there are no exposed wires. The
goal is to keep the wiring as well
protected as possible
without making the wiring too thick to
pull through the bars.
Fishing line tied around
the pins prior to wrapping
with tape and pulling
Here is the nut on the end of the fishing line pulled through, and the fishing line tied
around the pins and I am wrapping the wiring to keep from chafing. Wrap all the way up
to cover the exposed wires!
Gently feed the
wring through the top hole in the bars and pull on the fishing line. Once again GENTLY! The hardest part is getting
the wiring around the “T” bend in
the bars. I had
to go back and forth with the
wiring an fishing line a few times to get it through this portion of the bars. This is all about
finesse. Leave your heavy hands at home for this part of the operation.
Once the wiring is pulled
through the bars you are done with the
Mount the bars on the triple tree and loosely
attach the riser bolts.
Reattach the throttle cables
taking care to
not lose the brass ferrules.
Run through the
switch housings and reattach
the clutch perch and brake perch. Tighten
everything down including the riser bolts. Put your grips back on, right
side grip must go on prior to closing
the switch housings etc…
I know I forgot a thing or tow. If you know what it is let me know so I can add it this.
old noggin is not all it
used to be.
my speedo with 1.25” clamps on
either side of
the riser portion of the bars. It worked great.
The throttle and
brake cables were rerouted
through the center of the triple trees for a clean look.
How to article
was written/photographed by and Thanks to
NUYS BLVD. SHERMAN
OAKS, CA 91403 888-DR-V-TWIN TOLL FREE